Basic Crochet Doll Dress

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A doll has to have a nice dress and here is a super easy crochet pattern for a dress. You can adjust it for any size doll.

The stitches used in this pattern for the crochet bunny are:

sl st – slip stitch
ch – chain stitch
sc – single crochet stitch
dc – double crochet stitch

Materials needed:

crochet hook (3mm)
yarn (appropriate size for the crochet hook and color)
scissors
needle

First thing first. You have to take measurement doll that you made or have.

So my crochet doll measurements are:

shoulders: 12cm
bust: 10cm
waist: 10.5cm
hips: 11.5cm
shoulders to waist: 4cm – height of the top part of the dress
waist to knees: 5cm – length of the dress / skirt

The pattern can be alternated depending of the size of your doll, crochet hook and yarn you are using.

For my 3mm crochet hook and cotton yarn the dress is made in these steps:

23ch and join in a circle with a slip stitch. That is 10.5cm. So if you have to have more or less stitches... just do as many as you need for your waist size

Now let us talk about the chain stitch. The chain stitch if you look at it is made of the back loop – that is the one on top, the front loop – that is the one on the bottom and the back bump.

Now the skirt part of the dress is done in the back loop of the chains and the top part is done on the front loops.

First make the skirt for the dress.

When beginning a row you always do a chain 1 to step up into the next row and in the end of the row – for the skirt you join the row with a slip stitch.

B1: 23sc – 23st

For the hips you need to do a bit of increasing. So in my case I will do 4 increase stitches that I will distribute evenly over the 23st.

B2: 5sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 4sc, inc – 27st
B3-4: 27sc – 27st
B5: {8sc, inc} x3 – 30st
B6: {9sc, inc} x3 – 33st
B7: 5sc, inc, {10sc, inc} x2, 5sc - 36st
B8: 36sc – 36st

If you want:

longer dress: do more rows B8
wider dress: make 4 or 5 increase stitches per rows B5, B6, B7

The bottom end of the dress can have a straight edge or a bit of a waves form. If you choose the straight edge just works single crochet stitches around until the desired length.

If you want to waves: because my base for the skirt is 36 stitches each wave takes up 6st and I do 6 repetitions, if you don't have a multiplayer of 6 you can

(a) make an increase to come to that ,
(b) make and increase to a multiplayer of 5 and use the adjusted version of the wave:

That means:

B9a: {sl st, skip 1 st, 3dc, 3dc, skip 1 st, sl st} x6
B9b: {sl st, skip 1 st, 5dc, skip 1 st, sl st} x as you need it

The diagram for a wave (a):

The diagram for a wave (b):

Sew in the ends and start with the top part.

Only the 1st row is joined in a circle, all the other rows are done left to right and back. Each row begins with a chain 1 to go into the new row and level up the row. If using buttons to close the back in row T4 make ch4 that will be as a button hole. Also do a ch4 in row T9 and join with T8. Have both holes on the same side of the dress.

T1: 23sc – join in round – 23st
T2-7: 23sc
T8: 4sc, ch6, skip 4st, 7sc, ch6, skip 4 st, 4sc
T9: 4sc, 8sc in the ch6, 7sc, 8sc in the ch6, 4sc

If you need a button hole make a ch4 and join in with T8, sew in the ends. If you need a longer top, make more T7 rows.

If you have more stitches for the top part and don't know how to position the openings for the arms, use the flowing method:

count the stitches
divide by 2 and you get the number of stitches for the back side and the front side
if it is an odd number (13, 15, …) “move” a stitch to count to the back side, so in the back, where the opening is you have 2 equal parts (so instead of 13 you have 14st in the back, that means 6st on each side and 12st in the front)

Example (a): 26st

26/2 = 13

14 back side – you split it into 2 half